Preface IX 1. The Nature and Properties of Leather 1 1. Introduction 1 2. History of leather 2 3. Properties of Leather 3 4. Chemical testing of leather 8 5. Mechanical properties of leather 10 6. Tricks for Leather Products Care 12 7. Impact of leather fabric on the environment 14 Conclusion 15 References 16 2. Testing Leathers and Related Materials 19 1. Introduction 19 2. Determination of raw material 20 3. Determination of Tannage type 21 Conclusion 27 References 27 3. The Manufacture ofLeather 29 1. Introduction 29 2. Tanning in prehistoric and classical times 30 3. Tanning in the medieval and post-medieval periods 34 4. Tanning in the nineteenth century 35 5. Production Process 42 6. Tanning in modern times 47 Conclusion 48 References 49 4. Gilt Leather 51 1. Introduction 51 2. History of Gilt leather 52 3. Technique 56 4. Use of gilt leather 57 5. Gilt Leather Conservation and Restoration 67 Conclusion 70 References 70 5. Cuir Bouilli 72 1. Introduction 72 2. The cuir bouilli technique: An Historical Method of Hardening Leather 73 3. Leather moulding techniques 86 4. The origins of the cuir bouilli technique 87 5. Artistic context and iconography of the cuir bouilli enclosed garden 88 6. Damage and 19th-Century Restoration History 90 7. Changes undergone by the leather in the cuir bouilli process 91 8. Conservation Treatment 92 Conclusion 93 References 93 6. The Tools and Techniques of Leathermaking 95 1. Introduction 95 2. Leatherworking tools 96 3. Leather Working Burnisher & Slicker Tools 99 4. Leather Working Cleaning & Conditioning 102 5. Leather Working Creaser/Folder Tools 103 6. Leather Working Knives and Bladed Tools 104 7. Leather Working Dyes, Paints, and Finishes 108 8. Leather Working Edger and Beveler Tools 110 9. Leather Working Finishing Tools 113 10. Leather Working Glues & Adhesives 114 11. Leather Working Gouge Tools 116 12. Leather Working Hardware Fasteners and Setter Tools 117 13. Leather Working Holding Tools 120 14. Leather Working Marking Tools 121 15. Leather Working Mauls, Mallets, and Hammers 124 16. Leather Working Measuring Tools 126 17. Leather Working Chisels 129 18. Leather Working Punches Tools 130 19. Leather Working Sewing Tools 135 20. Leather Working Skivers Tools 141 21. Leather Working Splitters Tools 143 22. Leather Working Stamps Tools 143 23. Leather Working Tooling Etching, & Engraving Tools 144 24. Leather Working Tools Maintenance 144 25. Leather Working Surfaces 146 26. Reinforcements 150 27. Techniques 152 Conclusion 155 References 155 7. General Principles of Conservation 158 1. Introduction 158 2. Conservation and restoration treatments and techniques 158 3. Causes of deterioration to leather 161 4. Principles of care, storage and display 162 5. Conservation and restoration materials 164 6. Preventive Conservation 166 7. Preliminary Cleaning 176 8. Treatment of Brittle and/or Desiccated Leather 177 9. Treatment of Wet or Waterlogged Leather 179 10. The Aging of Leather and its Implications for Conservation 182 11. The essential nature of proper preservation 184 12. Issues Regarding the Conservation of Leather Artefacts 186 Conclusion 189 References 189 8. Furs and Furriery: History, Techniques and Conservation 192 1. Introduction 192 2. History of fur use 193 3. Composition 198 4. Conservation of Fur 220 Conclusion 224 References 224 9. The Manufacture of Parchment 227 1. Introduction 227 2. History of Parchment 228 3. Manufacturing 230 Conclusion 238 References 239 10. The Conservation of Parchment 242 1. Introduction 242 2. Conservation treatments 243 3. Recent Developments in the Conservation of Parchment 246 4. Agents of deterioration 258 5. Storage and Preventive Care 259 Conclusion 263 References 264 Index 267 |