Loading

Designing, Cutting And Grading Boot And Shoe Patterns, And Complete Manual For The Stitching Room


Price GBP 365.95

ISBN 9781839370069

Author Cameron Nolan

Year 2019

Publisher AKH Publishing House

Binding Hardcover

Cover Image Available

Making a shoe pattern or cutting a shoe pattern is not a difficult shoemaking skill. The basic techniques for drawing on a shoe last are simple, and the process is easy, but the skills required to make a beautiful, well proportioned, mechanically sound, shoe pattern may take years for a shoemaker to perfect! This is the true art of the shoemaker that a computer cannot replace. A skilled pattern cutter is the heart of a shoe factory’s development group. The objective of the book "Designing, Cutting and Grading Boot and Shoe Patterns, and Complete Manual for the Stitching Room" is to introduce the application of shoemaking, designing and grading boot and shoe patterns. Meeting quality standards is high on shoe manufacturers' objective lists. Manufacturers seek many of the same objectives, but the main goal is typically to produce the best products possible at the lowest costs. Individual sectors within the manufacturing industry seek specific objectives relative to the products produced. This book is designed for industrial, trade, and commercial schools. From tanning hides to boot repair, this comprehensive volume contains a wealth of timeless information that will be of considerable utility to those with an interest in leather boot and shoe manufacturing. This book is an affordable, modern, high-quality addition, with a specially commissioned introduction on the history of shoemaking. Through this book, we attempt to further enlighten the readers about the new concepts in this field.

Cameron Nolan obtained his Ph.D. in Product Design from Public University of the Arts, Wyoming. His research interest focuses on leather training, stitching and 3D footwear design. He has also served as a Visiting Professor at various universities across America and Europe. Nolan has authored and edited more than 40 articles, journal papers and book chapters in the field of shoemaking. He has also attended numerous international conferences and symposiums.

Preface IX
1. Designing Boot and Shoe Patterns 1
1. Introduction to designing boot and Shoe Pattern 1
2. Scope of Shoe and Boot Designing 3
3. How to make a shoe pattern 5
4. Materials and Tools You Will Need 10
5. Complete Shoe Making Process 19
6. Pattern Making in Shoe Design 20
7. How to become a Shoe Designer 26
8. Conclusion 29
References 29
MCQs 30
Answers 31
2. Pattern Design and Designing Software 32
1. Introduction to Pattern Design 32
2. Cutting the Pattern Parts 36
3. Shoe design software 39
4. Computer aided Design in Shoe Designing 40
5. Shoe Designer vs. Shoe Pattern Maker 43
6. Anatomy of the Shoe 46
7. Conclusion 50
References 51
MCQs 51
Answers 52
3. Cutting Boot and Shoe Pattern 53
1. Overview of Pattern 53
2. Standard pattern symbols 55
3. Define Pattern Cutting 57
4. Making cuttings for shoes 57
5. Types of Pattern Cutting 59
6. Pattern Cutting Machines 60
7. The Importance Of Pattern Cutting Trends 64
8. CAD/CAM in Shoe Pattern Cutting 65
9. Conclusion 67
References 67
MCQs 68
Answers 69
4. Grading Boot and Shoe Patterns 70
1. Introduction to Pattern Grading 70
2. Overview of Shoe Grading 71
3. Method of grading 74
4. History of Grading 76
5. Different types of Methods of Pattern Grading 77
6. How to Grade Shoe Patterns 78
7. Construction of Shoe 79
8. Pattern Grading to Create a Full Size Range 82
9. Grading Specifications 83
10. Grading vs. alteration: What’s the difference? 84
11. Grading Other Sizes And Fittings Of Sole-Shapes 86
12. Cote Grading Machine 90
13. Conclusion 93
References 93
MCQs 94
Answers 95
5. Stitching Boot and Shoe 96
1. Introduction to Footwear Stitching 96
2. Outsole Stitching 100
3. Stitching Athletic Shoe Upper 111
4. Footwear Stitching Machines & Workforce 115
5. Types of Stitching Machines 115
6. Conclusion 119
References 120
MCQs 121
Answers 122
6. Getting and Dissecting the Standards 123
1. How to choose the right shoe size? 123
2. How to Measure Your Foot Correctly? 124
3. How to Choose Running Shoes 127
4. The Anatomy of a Shoe 127
5. Running Shoes 139
6. Anatomy of Running Shoes 142
7. Conclusion 150
References 150
MCQs 151
Answers 152
7. Cloth Lining Footwear 153
1. Introduction to Shoe Lining 153
2. Shoe lining material 154
3. Introduction to Footwear Fabric 156
4. Importance of Shoe Lining 158
5. Textiles for Shoe Design 159
6. Leather Shoe Lining 162
7. Modern shoe lining: microfibre 163
8. Conclusion 164
References 165
MCQs 166
Answers 167
8. Button Boots 168
1. Introduction to Button shoes and Boots 168
2. Designing the Button-piece 169
3. Victorian Boots & Shoes 172
4. History of Button Boots 173
5. Characteristics of Button Boot 174
6. Classic Boot Style 175
7. Women’s and Men’s Buttoned and Laced shoes 176
8. Conclusion 178
References 178
MCQs 179
Answers 180
9. Vamps in Shoe-making 181
1. Introduction to Vamps 181
2. What is a Shoe Vamp? 184
3. How a Vamp Is Made 185
4. Vamps on Different Shoe Styles 187
5. Shoe Vamps Stretcher 188
6. Conclusion 188
References 189
MCQs 190
Answers 191
10. Quarter and Welt in Shoes 192
1. Introduction to Quarters in Shoes 192
2. How to Maintain the Quarter 193
3. Introduction to Welts 193
4. The Goodyear Welt 194
5. Blake Construction 202
6. Types of Welt Construction 205
7. Conclusion 213
References 213
MCQs 214
Answers 215
Index 217