"The study of leather is a specialist field in archaeology, yet focuses on one of the major materials in the past, the use of which still continues into the present. The common occurrence of these animal skin products through time, whether vegetable tanned leather, parchment, vellum, oil or fat cured skins or rawhide attest to the enduring utility and desirability of animal skins as a material. Understandably, ancient tanneries were always found on the outskirts of towns. With the malodorous preparatory work complete, the hides were ready for tanning. From ancient times and through the 18th century, tanners used a chemical compound called tannin, derived from tree bark and certain plant leaves.
This book deals with the field of leather in archaeology and current issues surrounding the study of materials in the past. The book is comprised of seven chapters. Chapter 1 is an Introduction to Tanning that focuses on preparation for tanning, tanning methods and tanning process. Chapter 2 sheds light on manufacture of box and willow sides by the single path process of chrome tanning. It covers the manufacturing concept of chrome tanned leather and steps involved in leather manufacturing processing. Chapter 3 focuses on leather glazed kid. It presents an overview of glazing leather, finishing ideas for glazed leathers, and finally garment suede leather. Chapter 4 focuses on the manufacture of chrome tanned leather. Chrome-tanned leather tends to be softer and more pliable than vegetable-tanned leather, has higher thermal stability, is very stable in water, and takes less time to produce than vegetable-tanned leather. Almost all leather made from lighter-weight cattle hides and from the skin of sheep, lambs, goats, and pigs is chrome tanned. Chapter 5 aims to cover the manufacture of vegetable tanned leather. It highlights on basics of vegetable tanning, methods of vegetable tanning and process of vegetable tanning. Chapter 6 focuses on manufacturing of leather product. It sheds light on manufacturing of leather harness, manufacturing steps of leather saddler, and the procedure of leather belt manufacturing. Chapter 7 is water pigment finishes for leather that covers the materials in composition of pigment finishes, types of leather pigments, and application of application of pigment finishes. This book serves as valuable guide for students and professionals in the field."
Selina Rodger serves as a Leather Technologist at Institute of Technology, Freiburg. She pursued her Master's Degree in Fabric & Leather Crafts from Public University of Arts, Lyon. She has more than a decade of experience in leather industry. Her current research areas include tanning, glazing leather, chrome tanned leather and leather pigments. She has written several technological research papers and articles on manufacturing of leather product. Rodger has been awarded the “Distinguished Contributions to Lifelong Learning Award” for her excellence in leather technology.
Preface IX
Chapter 1 Introduction to Tanning 1
1.1 Preparation for Tanning 2
1.2 Tanning Methods 10
1.3 Tanning Process 19
1.4 How to Tan a Hide 21
Summary 30
Multiple Choice Questions 31
Review Questions 32
References 33
Chapter 2 Manufacture of Box and Willow Sides by the Single Path Process of Chrome Tanning 35
2.1 Manufacturing Concept of
Chrome Tanned Leather 36
2.2 Steps Involved in Leather Manufacturing Processing 39
Summary 72
Multiple Choice Questions 73
Review Questions 74
References 75
Chapter 3 Leather Glazed Kid 77
3.1 Overview of Glazing Leather 78
3.2 Finishing Ideas for Glazed Leathers 80
3.3 Garment Suede Leather 90
Summary 100
Multiple Choice Questions 101
Review Questions 102
References 103
Chapter 4 Manufacture of Chrome Tanned Leather 105
4.1 Chrome (Chromium) Tanning 106
4.2 Chrome-Free Leather - FOC = Free of Chrome 116
4.3 Chromium VI 117
Summary 132
Multiple Choice Questions 133
Review Questions 134
References 135
Chapter 5 Manufacture of Vegetable Tanned Leather 137
5.1 Vegetable Tanning 139
5.2 Methods of Vegetable Tanning 152
5.3 Vegetable Tanning Process 156
Summary 160
Multiple Choice Questions 160
Review Questions 162
References 163
Chapter 6 Manufacturing of Leather Product 165
6.1 Manufacturing of Leather Harness 166
6.2 Manufacturing of Leather Saddlery 176
6.3 Manufacturing of Leather Belt 184
6.4 Manufacturing of Leather Bag 194
Summary 206
Multiple Choice Questions 207
Review Questions 208
References 209
Chapter 7 Water Pigment Finishes for Leather 211
7.1 Materials in Composition of Pigment Finishes 212
7.2 Types of Leather Pigments 222
7.3 Application of Pigment Finishes 235
Summary 249
Multiple Choice Questions 250
Review Questions 251
References 252
Index 255 |
