Preface IX 1. Collagen and Skin Structure 1 1. Introduction 1 2. Collagen and Skin in Leather Making 2 3. Chemistry of Collagen 6 4. Synthesis of Collagen 12 5. Molecular structure of Collagen 16 6. Characteristics and Uses of Collagen 18 7. Leather Degradation 19 8. Collagen Under the skin in Tanning Process 21 9. Structure of hides and skins 23 10. Chemistry of the Leather Industry 26 Conclusion 27 References 27 2. Skin and its Components 31 1. Introduction 31 2. Structure of Skin 31 3. Layers of Skin 32 4. Functions of the skin 41 5. Anatomy and Physiology of Animal Skin 45 6. Chemical Composition of Skin 53 7. Integumentary System in Animals 55 8. Histological Structure of Cowhide 58 9. Histological Structure of Skin 60 Conclusion 62 References 63 3. How to Make Leather? 66 1. Introduction 66 2. Introduction to Leather Making Process 66 3. Stages of making leather 75 4. Leather Making Methods 79 5. Beamhouse Operations 79 6. Tanyard Processes 83 7. Retanning Process 87 8. Finishing Process 89 Conclusion 92 References 92 4. Other Leather Making Process 95 1. Introduction 95 2. Preservation by Freezing, Drying and salting 97 3. Methods of Preserving Hides and Skins 100 4. Physical Chemistry of Raw Hide and Curing Process 104 5. Soaking and Fleshing Process 106 6. Unhairing Method 109 7. Liming and Deliming 110 8. Splitting Process 114 9. Bating and Pickling 122 Conclusion 122 References 123 5. Tanning Process in Leather Making 126 1. Introduction 126 2. History of Tanning 128 3. Traditional Method vs Modern Tanning Methods 130 4. Tanning Methods 133 5. Beamhouse Operations in Tanning 136 6. Overview of Tannery 138 7. Why Does Leather Need To Be Tanned 140 8. Preparations for Tanning 141 9. Stages of Tanning Process 146 10. Physical Alterations through tanning 148 11. Environmental Impact of Tanning 149 Conclusion 151 References 152 6. Introduction to Vegetable Tanning 154 1. Introduction 154 2. Introduction to Vegetable Tanned Leather 156 3. Tannins Used in Vegetable Tanning 158 4. Vegetable Tanning Leather vs. Chrome Tanning Leather 158 5. Tanning Process 158 6. Process of Vegetable Tanning 160 7. Benefits of Vegetable Tanned Leather 163 8. Environmental Impact of Vegetable Tanning 163 9. Leather Manufacture by Tanning Process 164 Conclusion 167 References 168 7. Chrome Tanning and Mineral Tanning 171 1. Introduction 171 2. Review of the development of chrome tanning 173 3. Chromium VI 175 4. History of Chrome Tanning 176 5. Process of Chrome Tanning 177 6. Chrome-free leather - FOC = Free of Chrome 179 7. Avatages and downsides of Chrome Tanning 181 8. Future of Chrome Tanning 182 9. Environmental Impact of Chrome Tanning 183 10. Tests on chromium (VI) 184 11. Avoidance of chromium VI compounds in leather 185 12. How to care for Chrome Leather 186 13. Chrome vs Vegetable Tanned Leather 187 14. Introduction to Mineral Tanning 190 15. Organic Tanning Options 194 16. Compact Tanning 196 Conclusion 199 References 200 8. Post-tanning Process 203 1. Introduction 203 2. Post-tanning Operations 204 3. Tanning And Leather Finishing 207 4. Drying of Leather 212 5. Buffing and Snuffing Process 215 6. Retanning Process 218 Conclusion 221 References 221 9. Other Tannages 225 1. Introduction 225 2. Types of Tannage 226 3. Chrome Tannage 228 4. Vegetable Tannage 232 5. Non-chromium tannages 234 Conclusion 236 References 236 10. Fatliquoring and Finishing Process 239 1. Introduction 239 2. Process of Fatliquoring 241 3. Elements of Fatliquoring 243 4. Advances and modern techniques in fatliquoring and retanning 248 5. Introduction to Finishing 250 6. Leather Finishing Process 253 7. Purpose of Finishing Operations 257 8. Methods to Apply Finishes 259 9. Finishing with Resin Dispersion Binders 261 10. Finishing After Tannage 262 11. What are Finishes? 264 Conclusion 265 References 265 Index 269 |